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Works great for belaying from the top. Mike Lewis, M.A. The Pivot provides smooth paying out, a secure and confident catch, and controlled lowering. Reviewed in the United States on May 5, 2019. Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. This is no small feat and DMM is justified in singing its praises. I love DMM for a number of reasons. When you're belaying a following climber off the anchor from the top of a pitch, these devices assist your brake hand by directing the climber's end of the rope into the device above the brake-end of the rope as it comes back out. I'm glad to see its use trickling down to other lead climbers. Mike Lewis guides Anthill Direct (5.9-) in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, using the DMM Pivot belay device [Photo] Peter Braam, Pros: Once the seconding climber begins climbing again after a fall, the belayer simply pulls (sometimes hard) the pinched rope out from the V-shaped groove and all is well. Higher friction when belaying thick ropes. Black Diamond Vision MIPS Helmet: Head protection that's as light and effective as ever, Dragon Alliance Flash LL Ion sunglasses: High quality with a big, bold style, Scarpa Ribelle HD: Boots that can keep up in the mountains, The Beal Opera: An 8.5mm rope that is as strong and waterproof as it is light. Yes, the Pivot is the best yet. It provides optimum performance both belaying from the harness and directly from the anchor in guide mode. The Pivot's shackle reduces the force needed to initiate lowering, increasing control of the speed at which you lower your second. Mike Lewis demonstrates how to lower a climber while in "guide mode" with the DMM Pivot: The belayer can set up a sling to pull back the carabiner on the rope and release the friction on the brake-end of the rope, allowing it to slide through the device while maintaining control with the brake hand. Plenty of instruction on YouTube. Highly recommended and using it in guide mode is also recommended, just try it out first and be prepared for the rope to release faster than you expect. The ATC Guide has deeper, longer, and wider-ridged outlets—the V-shaped part of the channel where the brake end of the rope exits the device. The set-up to lower a second using the DMM Pivot. Learn: About Us Policies Reviews Blog How To. You clearly described the guide-belay function (not easy) and the relative qualities of every device on the market. There's a problem loading this menu right now. Reviews It is almost boring to say, but I can t really think of anything about the DMM Pivot that I don t like. It basically operates like any other ATC with friction grooves until you have to lower the second. Check great and honest reviews! Your recently viewed items and featured recommendations, Select the department you want to search in, Reviewed in the United States on September 11, 2016. Rope Size: 8.9 mm - 11.0 mm. Excellent, light-weight, guide mode functions well. New User? See the American Alpine Club's Accidents in North American Mountaineering 2016, Fall on Rock: Lowering Error, P. 63. So how did they do it? For folks like myself who are climbing more than twenty days per month, and who are often doing the majority of leading and then belaying one or two seconding climbers from above, this is a big deal. The DMM Pivot is the only device on the market with a pivoting clip-loop for assisted braking, which adds less than an ounce of weight compared to the Petzl Reverso, the Pivot's closest competitor in shape and design. Here's what to do. During more than six months of guiding, climbing, and ski-mountaineering in diverse alpine and rock environments in Colorado, Alaska, Canada, France, Italy, and Switzerland, I compared the Pivot to other popular belay devices (especially the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide) in a variety of situations such as toproping, crevasse rescue, belayed skiing into steep couloirs, top-belaying multiple climbers at a time on multipitch rock and alpine climbs, rappelling, and rock rescue practice. Perfect for alpine, winter and multi-pitch trad climbs.5031290208703 Get FREE SHIPPING with $50 minimum purchase. My experience totally agrees with yours. The Pivot clearly advances the state of the art of one of the most valuable guiding tools ever. The DMM Pivot is the only device on the market with a pivoting clip-loop for assisted braking, which adds less than an ounce of weight compared to the Petzl Reverso, the Pivot's closest competitor in … With similar operation to the more common Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso, the Pivot offers controlled, smooth lowering of your partner. Enjoy easy rope control when you're on belay with the lightweight DMM Pivot belay device, especially when you're lowering in guide mode. Shop the latest DMM Climb at Backcountry.com. Start about 5:30 to see the anchor set up and how the “pivot” release works. On the positive side, the Pivot (and Reverso) offers more friction and holding power than the ATC Guide, especially when you're using thinner ropes, 9.2mm in diameter and smaller (DMM says the Pivot can be used for ropes 7.3mm to 11mm). Style: Brake Assist. Because I have a quiver of belay devices, I have the privilege to choose the right device for my day of climbing. The ATC Guide has three ridges in the V-shaped outlet while the Pivot has two and a half, and the Reverso has two. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Nice review! Find great deals on premium clothing and gear from DMM. Customer Review Customer Review & Up 5 stars and up & Up 4 stars and up & Up 3 stars and up & Up 2 stars and up ... DMM Pivot Belay Package. Great belay device. Login with your username and password below. Lightweight, ease of releasing the assisted braking function, belays thin ropes well, Cons: It's an improvement over a tried a true device that should see more popularity. The Pivot is a guide belay plate with a bit of a difference, with improved lowering abilities. Versatile, functional and innovative, the new DMM Pivot is a modern belay device that caters for modern belaying techniques with modern ropes. Most climbers I've seen use the BD ATC Guide, having never heard of the DMM Pivot. With a thin-enough rope the weighted climber-side of the rope can slip to the side of the brake-end and get pinched in the rope channel; with a simple 180-degree twist of the carabiner, the assisted brake will release—not good. Here's a video that shows how to use the DMM Pivot. Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question. Reviewed in the United States on July 13, 2018. Pulling on the brake end of the rope or the carabiner can make the carabiner do the above-mentioned 180-degree twist, which completely releases the braking mechanism of the device. Shop DMM Pivot | Be The First To Review DMM Pivot + Free Shipping over $49. UKC When there is a problem and you want things to run smoothly, the DMM Pivot will really help. FREE SHIPPING on Over 250,000 Products. This page works best with JavaScript. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. Edited to add: Rappelling and belaying in non guide mode is the same as with other tube style belay devices. We then choose a shorter list for in-depth research and testing before finalizing our top picks. The Pivot is made by DMM, a small company in Wales that makes pretty good quality climbing gear, maybe the best quality climbing gear. Very surprised this isnt used in the US more often, Reviewed in the United States on June 15, 2017, Great product and a much more easy to use version of the ATC guide. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. The Pivot provides smooth paying out, … Other examples of this type of belay device include the Petzl Reverso 4, Black Diamond ATC Guide, Cassin Piu 2, Edelrid Mega Jul, Kong Gigi, Mammut Smart, Mammut Bionic Alpine Belay, and the CAMP Ovo. This is the whole point of the pivot feature and it works very well. Then it is far better and easier to lower the second in guide mode then any other guide device except the Alpine Up which is even easier to operate. Love the DMM pivot for belaying from above!! Learn: About Us Policies Reviews Holiday Shopping How To. You can still see all customer reviews for the product. This is the best of several devices when it comes to belaying two seconds simultaneously off an anchor. While it used to be our Top Pick for this purpose, it is no longer the one that we recommend as our favorite. The DMM Belay Master 2 is one of six belay-specific lockers that we've tested. The pivot only affects lowering in guide mode. No more backup prusiks or other shenanigans to slow you down. The Pivot belay device delivers confident belaying and effective stopping power whether used in guide mode, or belaying from the waist. In common-speak, we are talking about "auto-locking" or "self-locking" plate devices such as the DMM Pivot. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for DMM The Pivot - at Amazon.com. In real-time scenarios and improvised testing stations at my local climbing gym, in the field, and at my home, I tested the efficiency and ease of releasing the various assisted braking systems. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee. Reviewed in the United States on August 20, 2020, Pivot is sweet and Biner hole for leverage is more, Reviewed in the United States on November 8, 2019. Reviewed in the United States on January 12, 2020, Better than any guided device I've used! Petzl GriGri. Rope-pinch happens relatively often when a seconding climber falls and abruptly pulls his/her rope into the V-Shaped groove to the side of the brake-end of the rope. Weight: 6.1 oz. DMM Pivot Belay Package. The DMM Pivot belay device is a unique pivot-style belay device that has all the advantages of a standard plate, but uses an innovative system that allows for full and complete control and management of the rope whilst in guide mode. It may be necessary to use a backup on the brake-side of the rope to ensure control. I first saw these while climbing in the UK and wow, I am bummed I bought a BD Belay before buying this. Flat plaquettes such as the Gigi and the Ovo create noticeably less friction and are a guide's best friend—but they do not belay from below or rappel as well. The DMM Pivot is a versatile, functional and innovative belay device that caters for modern belay techniques with modern ropes. With all of that said, rope pinch-and-twist can happen with surprising ease on the ATC Guide and the flat plaquettes compared to the Pivot, simply due to the difference in the width of the channels. When weighted, the climber's end pinches the brake-end and keeps the climber from falling. The DMM Pivot is an assisted-braking belay device that works well for top-belaying a climber directly from the anchor, as shown here. FREE SHIPPING on Over 250,000 Products. Guide plates have traditionally been difficult to operate when lowering seconds. These are the products we considered that ultimately didn't make our top 5. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. Here's a longer and more detailed review about the DMM Pivot (written by an AMGA Rock and Alpine Guide) And like most climbing techniques, it's a better show than to tell. Lowering was very easy and smooth. Features Suitable for 7.3 - 11mm ropes, it's optimized for 8mm - 10.5mm ropes. Highly recommend, Reviewed in the United States on May 10, 2016. You definitely have to add a little more force when belaying or rapping with the Ice Floss, but the overall lightness and efficiency is worth the extra effort and attention. Description of DMM Pivot Belay Device Red. I used it with DMM Belay Master HMS and some old Wild Country HMS because those are the krabs I have, but it worked flawlessly with both. The DMM Pivot is a uniquely functional belay device that offers guide mode belaying options and is compatible with a wide range of climbing ropes.. BEST USE: SPORT, … Live Chat Contact Check Order Status. Review: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device A prototype of the Edelrid Giga Jul that was on display at the 2018 Summer OR show . You can release the Pivot with just your fingers unless the second's full weight is hanging on the rope, but if you use your nut tool you will have very smooth control in any case. Some devices simply locked up and did not lower at all. That means tie off the rope with a munter and be sure to tie off the second that you don't want to lower in case have two seconds and you end up lowering both. This is a great feature when toprope or lead belaying in normal plaquette style. I bought a Pivot about six months ago, the first time I noticed the new device, because its advantages seemed mechanically obvious after half a lifetime of guiding with every evolving design of "self-locking" — OK, "assisted braking," with a tip of the helmet to conservative language — belay devices going all the way back to the Gigi, which changed my guiding style forever and for the better.

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